Ouch, Surfing Reef Breaks

Today was my first day surfing in international waters. It was a disaster.  There was no parking in the lot we needed to be in, so we parked several blocks down the coast and paddled 30 minutes back up to the wave (each way) – or, as Tree would say, long enough for me to know that he really loves me. The surf report said that the waves were 3-5 feet. Tree confirmed the size, but I’m pretty sure they were double overhead. I tried for three of them but didn’t quite ride any per se.  After a couple hours of paddle paddle paddle, my arms were boneless. Then came the hard part: getting back to shore. Tree pointed to where I was supposed to aim, but somehow I wound up 300 yards from that spot in the middle of a gigantic coral reef and rock garden. Quite quickly it became clear that either me or Xanadu were going to have to take a hit. I protected my board with my life, and she made it out unscathed. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for my feet. I have well over 10 pieces of coral still stuck in my feet, and that’s after Tree and I surgically removed a bunch earlier today. I think I’ll wait a couple days until the waves get a little smaller before going back out! STEVIE

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  1. reagan gagnon says:

    oh love, what a ding on your surfing ego. three suggestions: surf baby waves only so as to avoid becoming terrified of the sea, ALWAYS wear booties unless it is a beach break, and keep your eye on those coral cuts for evidence of MRSA. methicillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus thrives in some warm waters, and sure does love to infect surfer's wounds. if you spot a red line going from the wound toward your heart- you have MRSA, and you need to get a topical cream to place in the wounds before you become septic. if you wait until you're septic, you will need IV antibiotics- as sure way to ruin a vacation. if you don't have booties yet- buy them at the next stop. we baby beginner's try to cling to the ground when we get scared in the waves, and no amount of willpower can keep us from doing so. protect your feet, girl. i actually think the 'kini with the booties looks sort of tank girl hot.

  2. Hmmm, well so far I don't have any red streaks, but my second toe is twice the size it's supposed to be. The good news is that my body seems to be pushing out the coral pieces on its own though. I'm keeping all my cuts, scrapes and puncture wounds clean and dressed with neosporin. As for my surfing ego, that's going to take a good day in small waves to repair. Hopefully all this suffering will transpire in us being able to surf together some day! By the way, we had dinner with Miiranda and Miguel last night. They are lovely, lovely people! Hoping we get to hang out with them again. xoxo. Muah!

  3. Anonymous says:

    OK. Its been a few days. We need an update – how are your feet? Are they better? If not – get thee to a doctor!

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